Sunday, October 31, 2010

Trick-or-treat

Sitting in my favorite spot on the sofa, listening to the crackling of the wood in the fireplace and enjoying a quiet evening when all of a sudden R stands up and says..."There are a few men standing at the end of the driveway..that's odd."

I rise from my comfy spot to check out what he's talking about. To my surprise, we see the group grow larger as they make their way up to our house. Oh no! We then realize it's Halloween and it's a group of little kids dressed in costume with their parents coming to trick-or-treat! The French do trick-or-treat! Shoot..no bonbons in the house and the group is getting closer and closer. I check the pantry, grab 2 bags of clementines and hurry downstairs.

R learns from the parents that this is only the 2nd annual Halloween trick-or-treating for these kids and it's a new tradition in their families but not many people do it here. We still have 10 clementines left in case there are more kids. But after that's gone, I wonder how they will feel about eggs or potatoes. Heheheheh. Really! On est vraiment mal preparé for Halloween this year.

Sunday, October 24, 2010

French nationwide strikes and protests, version Autumn 2010

It's Monday October 25, 2010 and the start of a 2-week long school break. The winds are blowing something fierce outside but thankfully it's not the Le Bise, the cold wind that blows over the Alps and lasts for days.

In other parts of France, there is another storm brewing. Since September 7, there's been 6 massive general gréves (strikes) against the French government's proposal to reduce national spending by:

1. raising the normal retirement age for public pensions from 65 to 67
2. raising the age of early reduced pensions from age 60 to 62

In Bellegarde and towns near the Swiss frontier, I have not seen or experienced any strikes. But in early September when we were in the Provence, we saw a small protest in Avignon as they were breaking for the lunch hour. Strikers still have to eat you know..and it's France so they probably had a 2 hour lunch break :)

Although it's a national controversy that's covered in the papers and French television every day, it's pretty much status quo here. We're still able to fuel up on petrol (gasoline) although the prices have risen; the highways move smoothly; the garbage is collected every Tuesday morning.

In contrast, larger cities such as Paris, Marseilles, Lyon, Toulouse have been harder hit. In Marseilles, the stench is overwhelming as garbage is piling up in the streets. In Paris and other major cities, 2/3 of TGV trains are running, up from 1/3 in September as public workers at railways joined the strikes. Flights in and out of Charles de Gaulle and Orly airports are still not running at full capacity. Julia and Mike went to Night of the Stars at the Boston Ballet last night. There was a last minute replacement because 1 of the ballerinas could not make it out of Paris to Boston due to the strikes.

In Lyon and other cities, lyceens (high school students) are joining the strikes by the thousands. On occasion, cars are being overturned and burned and stores are being vandalized and looted. The gendarme (the military police, or the "armed people" if you translate it literally) are on guard and in a few cases, they have fired rubber bullets and used tear gas to control the crowds. Public workers at all 12 oil refineries are on strike which has lead to a shortage of gas. Actually 1/4 of the 13,000 or so gas stations in France have run out of gasoline. Stations that have gas have enormous lines and high prices. And then there are the "escargots", or snail protests which some truckers are staging. How does it work? The truckers drive in teams very slowly on the highways while others block fuel depots and/or stop distributing cash to ATMs. There's been a bit of panic about the shortage of petrol, but a shortage of cash?

Is this a revolt against the proposed pension reform? Which by the way was only reduced in 1983 from age 65 to age 60 by Francois Mitterand for public pensioners. Is it against Sarkozy whose popularity has hit its lowest point? Is it a revolt because of the general discontent in France due to high unemployment? How long will these strikes last? And how much damage has it done to the French economy and the France's reputation abroad? The reform has been recently approved by both the Assemblé Nationale and the Senate..and will probably be enacted into law sometime next week. I wonder how much longer until this storm passes. There are 2 additional strikes planned: one tomorrow and another on November 6.

I don't have a strong opinion about the reform but the way it's happening is typically French. Like the U.S., France has many baby-boomers who are living longer and longer. The public pension system is going to run dry in 6-8 years if nothing is done soon! But instead of the French government and the unions engaging together, the French government is just dictating the change. France's government is very centralized, and much of the power is in Paris and emanates from there to the regional prefectures. The French are demonstrating because they think the government should reduce tax cuts to the very rich instead of reforming the public pension system which they worked so hard to get in 1983 and the following years.

R and I are planning to go to Lyon tomorrow. I need to satisfy a macaron fix and we plan to go to Institut Vatel (Vatel Hotel Business School) where they have an excellent restaurant run by culinary students. If there are demonstrations, I hope they are peaceful. It will also be nice if we can avoid any potential escargots on the autoroute! Looking forward to Sarkozy's TF1 appearance on Wed at 8pm local time to see what he has to say about the past 2 months of conflict.

Wednesday, October 20, 2010

Wild boars!

Watching Star Wars Episode 1 - Phantom Menace tonight with a hot cup of Earl Grey tea. I love the smell of bergamot and the warmth and the roundness of the brown earthenware cup in my hands.

It's a chilly night and I'm glad to be inside, unlike the four sangliers, or wild boars, R and I spotted tonight while driving home. At 19h R had picked me up from auto école where I had watched videos on les regles de circulation, priorité, signalisation and gas/mileage conservation (by knowing how to control your manual transmission car). Around 19:10h, we were just about home when we spotted a dark shape running down the hill towards us—as we often see animals on these dark country roads—we thought maybe a small deer or two.

To our delight, it was a group of sangliers who trampled down the hill, then crossed the road in front of us. They were headed towards a small opening in a thicket of woods by the roadside. We got a good long look at three of them because the first one made it through but the last three got stuck trying to crowd into the small crawl space. After a minute or two, the three adjusted their plan, backed up, and then successfully made it in single file. 

Oh yes, I also got my first French haircut this weekend. I got a good four inches chopped off. Now the longest part just grazes my shoulders and I look a little like my twelve year old self!

Saturday, October 16, 2010

Spelunking is NOT a stroll in the park

Gray skies and light rains lasted throughout the day but it didn't keep us inside. First, a quick stop at the dechetterie to drop off our recycles and yard waste. Next, a visit to Ville's school where the kiddies were having a fundraiser and selling freshly pressed apple cider and tarte aux pommes - yumm! Then, a stop at Bellegarde's mushroom "expo". It was a tiny expo, but to our delight, the hosts were really nice and they baked 5 different savory "cakes" with different mushrooms in them. We ate the "cakes" with homemade alcohol made with local ingredients - one was made from sage; another from basil; another from a local berry.

After Skyping with May and the boys, R and I got ready for our big adventure of the day. This summer, when there was an open day for the local clubs in Bellegarde, R and I met the speleo club and told them we'd be interested in their "initiation" day.

So today was it! At the beginning of the week, the club sent us a really simple email. Dress warmly in layers in clothes you don't mind being totally dirtied; bring water & snacks; wear boots; bring rubber kitchen gloves. Thinking it was an initiation day, we expected a fairly easy expedition for novices...maybe a bit physical but nothing crazy!

We drove to the meeting place which was a parking area by the side of road next to a big mountain. At the location, we met the group (10 in total including us; 5 experts; 5 newbies like us) and had to pay for insurance (12CHF for both of us which is freaking ridiculously cheap) and sign in case something happened to us. To prepare for our expedition, we donned knee high rubber boots and helmets with lights (grace au club). Then we started walking to our entrance - within minutes, we stopped. I was puzzled because I didn't see any entrance to our grotte Felicite which means happiness in French.

The guides were pointing at a small hole in the mountain which was 2 feet in diameter (or slightly less). We had reached our entrance into the grotte - my first thought? Sh**!!!! What have I gotten myself into. Did I mention I've had nightmares where I've had to crawl into tiny holes which seem too small to fit me but then it does.

But I was there, so I was going to do it! One by one, we got on all fours and slid in head first because the hole was so low and narrow. R went ahead of me, barely fitting through because it was a small hole but also because we had on so many layers. When it was my turn, I took a deep breath and went in, feeling a bit like Alice in Wonderland, not knowing what to expect inside.

How do I describe the descent and the spelunking expedition? It was dark, cold enough inside so we could see our breaths, and after crawling into the hole, we descended down it pretty fast into a small landing with a pool of water a few inches deep. And then we sort of walked down a little bit, noticing that the ceiling got lower and lower as the cave walls got narrower and narrower.

In many places it was so narrow and the cave ceiling so low, we had to crawl on our stomaches; in a few places, it was too low to really crawl so we had to drag our selves with our arms through sand, stone, pebbles and pretty F****** cold water to get to the other side.

It was a long meandering expedition and I for one didn't know how long it was..just knew it would take 3 hours to do. Dowwwwwnnnnnnn and then Uppppppppppp we went. We navigated deep pools of water (deep enough we were advised to not step into it) so we had use the sides of the cave to navigate across the water. Thank god there were ropes at the very dangerous points. But every step was made judiciously because some places were super high and it was also pretty slippery (thank goodness for the rubber boots and rubber gloves, which are now totally shredded). I don't have claustrophobia but there was a point towards the end where I would have given anything to emerge outside - but then I learned we had to crawl back out the same way we went in!

The whole time, I continued, sometimes stopped to take a look around..and then we had to move forward again. It was SO COOL - being inside the belly of a mountain. We saw cool stalactites, the ones that hang down like icicles. It was a real physical and mental challenge but it was such good fun...and I'm so happy I did it but if I had known what I was getting myself into, there would have been NO WAY I could have done it.

I'm now sitting in my PJS, all warm and clean after having taken one of the BEST showers in my life. The endorphins are rushing through my body! Despite the bruises, and the aching muscles, I'm so happy for the experience and surprised I was not really afraid or lose my sh** at the scary parts.

This is what I love about France - or about the French countryside. Everyone is really gracious and ready to share their knowledge and passion! The guides were great and so helpful at the points where I needed help navigating. Even though it's only 36Euro a year to join the speleo club, I'm pretty sure I'm not signing up anymore for these type of spelunking expeditions (considering the one we did today was for debutantes). I'll post pics when the members send them to me!

Friday, October 8, 2010

A little bit of everything

Interesting start to our weekend - Thursday night R and I attended Cuba Si, le spectacle. I wasn't sure what to expect but I was happily surprised. We were told to arrive early so we'd get seats, so we arrived early and were entertained by students from the local piano school who ranged from age 5 to 18 or so. They played everything from classic to modern and contemporary. My favorite piece was played beautiful by an 18 year old - it is Yann Tiersen's Comptine D'Un Autre Ete-L'Apres Midi If you've ever seen Amelie, you'll recognize that it's from the soundtrack and is beautifully melancholic.




This week is National Mushroom week in France! Friday I went to my second mushroom outing with the mushroom club and learned a few interesting things and saw many interesting mushrooms.

Roger Fillion, the mushroom expert who goes with us is THE mushroom expert of the region and everyone in the mushroom world here knows about him. And another guy Jacques and his wife are both long-time science teachers. Both of these guys started the SEPNS club in 1972 before I was even born to study, document, and help educate others on nature and mushrooms (in order to better preserve it for future generations).

We went up Le Retord again (the mountain near my house) and found hundreds of varieties of mushrooms. Out of all of them, the edible ones I picked after some helpful identification from Roger, Daniel, and Marie-Christiane were these 5. And also 1 snake!




1. Latin: Laccaire amethystea
Dusty purple on the top and on the lamelles. Gorgeous!

2. Tete de moines (Roger gifted 8 of these yummy mushrooms to me at the end of the outing as we were all parting when he saw that I had only found a few mushrooms. What a sweetheart!)
Latin: Clitocybe Geotrope

3. Pied de mouton (Daniel gave these to me after he found a patch. They are really meaty, sweet and yummy).
Latin: Hydnum repandum

4. Chanterelles-en-tube
Latin: Craterellus tubaeformis

5.
Tricholome prétentieux
Latin:
Tricholoma portentosum

Plus this also: Latin:
Pseudohydnum_gelatinosum
Even those these were edible, I didn't pick them..they were so weird looking!

Sunday R and I went to a mushroom/nature/bees/butterfly/beetle expo in Oyonnax. The mushroom world is a small one - we bumped into one of the guys from the first mushroom outing and also met madame le club president both of whom know Roger and Jacques. We spent hours there ogling the hundreds of fresh mushrooms; reading the different recipes; looking at several hundred mounted specimens of butterflies, spiders, beetles and other creepy crawly creatures. The president gifted me a little mushroom recipe booklet and confirmed the Helvella Crispas I found last week are edible. Upon returning to the meadows nearby, I didn't find any Helvella Crispas but I did find tons of coprinus comatus. Julia has picked these before in Germany where they are known as schopftintlinge!

Wednesday, October 6, 2010

Cuban Festival and châtaignes

Bellegarde is having a Cuban Festival! Why? To learn about and celebrate Cuban heritage. We have Turks, North Africans, Portuguese, 1 Japanese, 1 Chinese-American (that's me), 1 Italian, and 1 Senegalese...but Cubans? I don't know of any but maybe we have some. Another reason why: my guess is to bring residents (and their Euros) into the shops located in "downtown" Bellegarde, which has a population of 10,000, but is losing shops, shoppers, and Euros to the other big shopping centers a little outside of town.

Today we noticed that the Cuban Festival crew had set up large tents in the town market square - and to get everyone into the mood? Cuban music was being piped on the town's loudspeakers placed all around town. The hit of the fete, a Cuban spectacle with singing, dancing and colorful costumes. Instead of buying tickets, you can pick up invitations at participating shops and other locations like the Mairie and Hotel de Ville. Then you can exchange these invitations at restaurants in town for actual timed tickets. We have 2 tickets for tomorrow after at 17:30 - and 2 extra tickets to give away to my mushroom club friends! I'm looking forward to the music and the show tomorrow night!

After a little shopping, we decided to take advantage of the gorgeous weather and go for a walk to look for châtaignes (edible chestnuts with the super spiky shells) in the forest near our house. R has seen people collecting châtaignes there, so we decided to try our luck. Within minutes on the trail we found a large châtaigne tree with some chestnuts still hanging on. We collected half a dozen or so from the tree and many more that had fallen on the ground. Feeling lucky, we walked further but alas, it was the only tree we found after an hour or so of walking. BUT I did find a super cool looking Helvella Crispa mushroom and a tiny bolet (unfortunately it was not a tasty cep de Bordeaux)!

Tuesday, October 5, 2010

Walking in the woods

I should be reading about Service Operation for my ITIL certification exam - but I'm taking a break. Take a break with me...photos from Friday's outing with the local mycologie club.

Non-edible and toxic mushrooms! Please, please do not collect and eat any wild mushrooms before very, very careful identification. I don't eat any mushrooms unless they have been identified by the local mushroom expert and 3 other members of the club.

Two kinds of edible mushrooms (cep de Bordeaux, chanterelles-en-tube); marasmus oreades, quinces and sage from the garden.

The wild mushrooms I found with the club on Friday are a total taste explosion! For the chanterelles-en-tube, a quick saute in beurre, sea salt, then folded into an airy omelet. The porcinis (known locally as cep de Bordeaux)? Sauteed with fresh thyme, bay leaf, sea salt, pepper and spooned onto slices of whole wheat French bread. MON DIEU.



Photos from Land Art - an art exhibit using things found in nature:

Photo from monastery/church in Bourg-en-Bresse. We were on our way to Beaujolais but the rain came on strong so we decided to take refuge by walking through the grand church in Bourg built by Marguerite de Autriche.