Soufflé aux poires

Happy Peanut Butter Lover's Day! Today's forecast was 7 C and sunny—but winds and gray clouds loomed overhead on the drive to Geneva. While R was visiting with a former colleague near the Palais des Nations, I planned on spending an afternoon with my new camera strolling the grounds and visiting the greenhouses, or serres, of Geneva's Jardin Botanique. But "the best-laid plans of mice and men often go awry" wrote Robert Burns'.

The day didn't go as planned—en route to Geneva my mobile rang—KO, from last Friday's missed connection, was free today and could come meet me in the city! We met at le jardin, and from there we followed Rue de Lausanne vers centre ville to do some shopping at Manor, a large and fancy Swiss department store with its own fancy-schmancy supermarket in the cellar. It was so refreshing to spend time with someone who is as passionate about food and France as I am. Hours flew by as we chatted about life, love, moving to France, and food. She's returning home to San Francisco at the end of this week but her plan is to move here in August. That is something to look forward to!

When I got home, the four poire williams sitting in the cherry bowl were calling to me. I couldn't resist buying these pears at the market last week—not only were they a beautiful shade of yellow with patches of pink red, but their parfum was amazing. My initial plans were to use them in a tarte aux poires, but after a week of neglect, the pears were becoming spotty brown and too soft for a tart. Listening to the wind blowing outside, I decided to make something warmly appealing..a confiture des poires, which I'll whip into a soufflé aux poires tomorrow, if the confiture lasts past tonight! It is simply amazing what a few good ingredients can become.

On Pears
Pears are indigenous to Europe (and Asia) and have been cultivated here for thousands of years, with just as many varieties. In the forests of my region, there are wild pears..and this year I will try to see if I can find them. So how many different varieties can you name? In Boston, my go-to market carried Bosc, Seckel, Anjou and Bartlett. In France, I often see different Williams pears, Comices, as well as the first three named above. But the Bartlett, what is that? It's interesting you ask. Tonight I found out that the Williams pear is known as the Bartlett (of Boston) pear in the U.S.! It gets its name from Enoch Bartlett of Dorchester, MA who introduced this variety to the U.S. in 1799.

Soufflé Aux Poires Recipe (adapted from a Bon Appetit recipe and this French recipe)

INGREDIENTS
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
4 large very ripe Williams or Bartlett pears (peeled, cored, and chopped up)
40g granulated sugar
3 large egg yolks, room temp
4 large egg whites, room temp
60g granulated sugar
Pinch of salt

INSTRUCTIONS
1. In a medium saute pan over medium heat, melt 1 tablespoon unsalted butter.
2. Add the pears, and then 40g of sugar.
3. Cook well, stirring constantly until the pear is very soft and you can mush it up with the back of a wooden spoon. Cook until most of the liquid is evaporated.
4. Remove the pan from the heat, cover it and chill for a few hours or make ahead and chill overnight.
5. Generously butter 6 ramekins (sans ramekins, I used 6 silicone cupcake molds)
8. Coat bottom and sides of ramekins with granulated sugar. Tap out excess sugar. Place ramekins on cookie sheet.
9. Preheat oven to 190C or 375F.
10. Add egg yolks to the pear puree and whisk it over a medium-low heat, taking care to not let the mixture boil!
11. Transfer pear mixture to a large bowl.
12. In another large bowl, whisk egg whites with a pink of salt until soft peaks are formed.
13. Gradually add 5 tablespoons sugar to the egg whites while beating until stiff peaks are formed.
14. Gently fold the egg whites into pear mixture, taking care to not overmix it.
15. Divide soufflé batter equally into the 6 ramekins (they will be filled to the top).
16. Bake soufflés for 15 minutes, or until they are puffy and golden on top.
17. Dust with powdered sugar and serve immediately.