Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Paris, je t'aime

Having lived in France for almost a year, I still hadn't yet been to Paris, the epicenter of the French state and the capital of all things delicious...croissants, macarons, and chocolate. Pourqoi pas? I don't know...but who doesn't love Paris, especially in spring when the city is just waking up from winter, and it's about a month away until the start of the tourist season. After some planning (and reading articles to get me excited for Paris. Scroll to the bottom for my complete list of articles), R and I chose the first weekend in April just because...the weather forecast looked promising and we hoped to find the flowers in bloom in Paris' many green spaces.

Nous avons arrivés à Paris après a quick 2.5 hour train ride via the TGV, or le train de grande vitesse. R and I brought reading materials, breakfast, and my knitting, but we ended up watching the show out our window. This is no Acela train. The TGV is quick (understatement), and we sped by quaint villages with big churches, stately châteaux, meadows with sheep, cows, and old stone farmhouses. To me, this is France..the beautiful flowing countryside. I sighed appreciatively as R and I pointed out different things to each other as we sped by them. Before we knew it, 2.5 hours had passed and our train was approaching Gare de Lyon, our destination.

In 2000 I visited Paris for the first time with my Mother and from what I remember, I loved Paris and was quite impressed with the grandness of the city, the food culture, and the fantastic rooftop views of Paris from the top of the Eiffel Tower. From the top you have a bird's eye view of Paris, with its red rooftops, its many boulevards and avenues neatly lined up, and every so often, parks and public spaces providing respite from the fast pace of the city. Mom and I stayed with relatives in the 13eme. During this first visit I saw the city's iconic trinity, le Notre Dame, le tour Eiffel, and l'Arc de Triomphe.

It was our first visit to Europe and together Mom and I figured out the French franc (yes, in 2000 France was still using the Franc even though it was already part of the EU), le Metro, and Europe's rail system. Thanks to many years of high school French and six years of Latin, I was able to get by in French but just barely. I learned a few vital survival phrases and I now have to laugh at how I must have sounded trying to pronounce them.

Mom and I were enchanted by Paris..indeed. And Versailles. You should visit one day to appreciate the grandness and understand why the French revolted against Marie Antoinette and Louis XVI. As the French say "C'est trop", meaning it's just too much and R wonders why the French didn't revolt earlier than they did.

After 11 years and many travel under my belt, I still think Paris is very very special. If I could live there one day, that would be a dream come true. Despite having 12 million people, Paris is still quite an approachable city, even a friendly one. The city is well planned, with many big boulevards, public green spaces, squares, fountains, and public works of art and engineering. Compared to New York City, even Boston, Paris is considerably quieter. Traffic runs quietly—taxis, cars, bicycles, le Metro and buses all run quietly. There is little honking, and even though I still think French people drive too fast, I haven't witnessed any road rage. Nor do I hear any obnoxious (or loud) music coming from passing cars, stores, or in the park. What I do here is water splashing from the fountains, laughter, rapid fire Parisian French (audible but not loud), clicking beer/wine bottles from picnickers enjoying a drink in the hedges of the Jardin de Tulieres. And I smell pastries. Surprisingly I did not see much trash on the streets (except for those in the green plastic poubelle bags on every street corner), nor did I step on any French dog poo. Apparently Parisians are infamous for letting Fido do his duty on the street and leaving it there (for the French state to clean up).

Perhaps it was the gorgeous weather, or maybe my attempt at French. In any case, we got extra desserts at Lenôtre, skipped the crazy line at the Louvre, and got the number of a woman who makes crêpes in the Jardin de Luxembourg. All in all we loved our stay and got treated very well everywhere we went in Paris. Already looking forward to our next trip.

















PARIS INFORMATION
When to go: in April when the weather is good and ahead of the great influx of tourists; definitely not in July or August when it's too hot and most of Paris is away on vacation. But honestly, any time of the year is good. I hope to return soon, in May or June, or maybe in September. Or search for events on the Paris Tourism website if you are looking to time your visit with le Salon d'Agriculture or le quatorze de juillet.

Where to stay: look on Booking.com for your hotel. We got a deal for 123€ for two nights, all taxes included, without breakfast which we preferred to take at a local bakery or patisserie. And Paris has oodles of them, many scrumptious.

How to travel in Paris: R and I considered getting the Paris Visite or Mobilis cards but it didn't make sense for us. We love to walk and planned on seeing much of Paris on foot. After a long day of walking, I recommend le metro. So for us, buying a carnet of 10 rides was the best option. Usually it's 1.70€/ride but buying the booklet of 10 worked in our favor and reduced the fare to only 1.20€ per ride! The ticket is valid on metro, RER (within Paris zone), bus d'Île-de-France (except to the airports), tramway, funiculaire at Montmartre and can be used to transfer from one mode of transportation to another as long as it's used within 1.5 hour between the first and last destination.

What to visit: If it's your first time, then definitely visit the Eiffel Tower for the view. You can use the stairs (jusqu'au 2ème étage) for only 4.7€, or take the elevators up the top for 13.40€. There is so much to do in Paris...and I recommend you walk if you can, or take le metro.

New York Times Travel on Paris
http://travel.nytimes.com/2011/04/03/travel/03Choice.html 
http://travel.nytimes.com/2011/03/27/travel/27paris-cover.html?src=me&ref=homepage
http://travel.nytimes.com/travel/guides/europe/france/paris/hotels.html 
http://travel.nytimes.com/2010/04/18/travel/18prixfixe.html
http://travel.nytimes.com/2009/06/28/travel/28frugalparis.html

Hidden Paris
http://www.parislogue.com/featured-articles/hidden-paris-little-known-attractions-in-the-city-center.html

Paris Museums
http://en.parisinfo.com/guide-paris/money/free-admission-and-good-deals/guide/free-admission-and-good-deals-in-museums-and-monuments_free-on-1st-sunday-of-the-month-all-year-round

Free Things To Do in Paris
http://www.parislogue.com/free-paris

Culture
http://www.culture.fr/fr/sections/

Paris Markets
http://www.parisperfect.com/paris-flea-markets.php
http://www.discoverfrance.net/France/Paris/Shopping/Paris_markets.shtml

Asian Mega Grocery Stores
Paris Store, 3eme and 10eme. 5 boulevard de la Villette. Tél: +33 1 42 08 62 54
Tang Freres, 13eme. 48 avenue d'Ivry. Tél: +33 1 53 61 16 03 

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