A Bostonian in France: Paris: I walk for pâtisseries

Paris is a sprawling modern city, divided into 20 arrondisements or districts. Starting from the city center le 1er arrondisement, the city spirals out like an escargot to le 20eme arrondisement. Lined with many tree shaded boulevards, wide trottoirs, or sidewalks, it's a perfect city for strolling during the day or night. For R and I, it's one of our favorite things to do when we arrive in a new location. To take a long walk, visit the local grocery stores and farmers' markets. And since we're in Paris, to people watch and visit Paris' many green parks and public spaces. I feel that I get a really good feeling for a city when I walk through it.

Despite Paris' modern face, around every other corner, there's a glimpse into its grand past...hidden plazas, secret places, large beautiful fountains, large squares with terraces, cobble stones streets like those found in many older European cities.

If you're into fresh food and farmer's markets, you can take your pick from 69 open air markets and 13 covered markets, all spread out across the arrondisements and days of the week. With over 13,000 restaurants, you can eat at a bar, bistro, brasserie, crêperie, or a restaurant. And there's a huge range, from the under 5€ crêpe to a sublime dining experience at one of Paris' sixty-four Michelin-starred establishments.

Since the weather was absolutely gorgeous, sunny and warm without being sweaty, we saw Paris by foot, walking through the different neighborhoods. But more specifically in search of something really special...the boutiques and pâtisseries of Pierre Hermé and Lenôtre.

R being the sweetie he is, trampled with me all over the City of Lights searching for macarons, pastries and good bread. First on Lenôtre: R and I found the pâtisserie at 48 avenue Victor Hugo after a very long day of walking through the city. Even though we arrived 15 minutes before closing time, the people waiting on us were very polite and friendly, giving us time to look through each case. We didn't feel too bad because there was another couple inside, and they were cleaning up as we were looking. I had no idea that Lenôtre was also a traiteur, and sold savory meals you could take home and heat up for your family. We started with the sweet stuff: four macarons, two pastries (a Savarin among them) and 3 pastries (bun l'orange, Kouglof, and one other whose name I can't remember). As if we didn't have enough pastries to last us a day, one of the ladies snuck in 8 profiteroles for free (as an extra present she whispered to me). Merci!! I found out later that the delicious profiteroles are used in their Saint Honoré dessert. Everything was fantastic, and R and I felt like we hit the dessert lottery with the extra profiteroles.

Lenôtre has 51 addresses with 22 of them abroad, and spread across 8 countries: France (Paris, Nice, Cannes), Germany (Berlin), Spain (Marsella), Thailand (Bangkok), Saudi Arabia (Jedda, Riyad), Kuwait (Kuwait City, Salmiya), Morocco (Casablanca, Rabat), Qatar (Doha), China (Beijing), UAE (Dubai, Abu Dhabi), and the US, with the next openings in Jordan and Bahrain.

Boutique Patisserie, Traiteur, et Chocolaterie
48 avenue Victor Hugo
Tél: 01 45 02 21 21

The only store in North America is not located in New York City , or even San Francisco, but in Las Vegas of all places.

Lenotre Paris Las Vegas Hotel
3645 Las Vegas Blvd
South Las Vegas, Nevada
702-946-4341

On Pierre Hermé: He is THE macaron man and has even been called the Picasso of Pastry. Apprenticed at age 14 with Gaston Lenôtre—small world isn't it—he learned the trade and then later perfected his art at other notable places including Ladurée. When PH left Ladurée, his contract prohibited him from opening a competing boutique in Paris, so he started his empire in Tokyo, opening the first one in 1998, four years before he opened his first Parisian store in 2002. Since then, PH has expanded his sweet empire to 18 addresses in 3 countries (some boutiques, some patisseries, and some in hotels and grand department stores—see complete list below).

If you want macarons, you can choose from many boutiques, but if you're looking for his famous pastries, make sure you visit one of the two pâtisseries, one of which is located at 72, rue Bonaparte in the 6eme arrondisement. At PH, you'll find the best macarons, chocolates, and pastries. Not only do they look beautiful (so beautiful you don't want to even eat them), but you'll find he takes baking to the pinnacle of perfection—he sources the best ingredients, couples flavors that seem surprising at first but really work and you wonder why you haven't seen anything like that before. The whole experience from browsing at the shop to opening your little present to eating it, is a very enjoyable experience. En fait, I was in heaven, taking a bite, passing it to R, and closing my eyes and trying to guess the different flavors in each bite.

You can spend a pretty Euro on the gorgeous and delicious desserts, which I did. I was hoping to find some savory macaron flavors, such as the famous foie gras, ketchup, and Tasbasco flavors, but these were made a few years ago for a particular American client. All of PH's macaron parfums are limited edition and depending on when you visit, you will discover different flavors and tastes.

R who's known about macarons, wasn't excited about the ones in New York, or even the ones here in our region. But he is a convert for Pierre Hermé's genius at pairing different flavors together. He's not only the macaron king, but also very skilled in making chocolates and patisseries. In fact, his most popular (and IMHO) beautiful dessert is the Isaphan—a sandwich of 2 raspberry colored macarons filled with rose petal cream and fresh lychee and topped with fresh raspberries that taste like pure summer.

Over two days of "research", I found some favorite macaron parfums as well: Coing et Rose, Mogador (chocolat au lait et fruit de la passion), Infiniment Rose, Dépaysé.

I'm hoping to return soon to sample these new flavors, released after our trip: Arabesque (abricot et pistache), Huile d'Olive & Vanille, Indulgence (Menthe Fraiche et Petits-Pois), Asperge Verte et Huile de Noisette, Infiniment Jasmine (fleur de jasmin et thé au jasmin).

What else should I try on the next trip to Paris? What have you liked about Paris (eating-wise)?

LES BOUTIQUES PIERRE HERMÉ PARIS (located in 3 countries, with 18 boutiques)
Les Boutiques Pâtisserie (you'll find chocolates and a small selection of macarons in these pâtisseries too).

72 rue Bonaparte, Paris 6e. Tél : +33 (1) 43 54 47 77. Open Monday to Sunday, 10 AM to 7 PM
Saturday, open to 7:30 PM
185 rue de Vaugirard, Paris 15e. Tél : +33 (1) 47 83 89 96. Open Tuesday and Wednesday, 10 AM to 7 PM; Thursday to Saturday, 10 AM to 7:30 PM; and Sunday, 10 AM to 6 PM. Closed Monday.

Les Boutiques Macarons and Chocolats (only macarons and chocolates, no desserts like the famous Isaphan)

4 rue Cambon, Paris 1er
58 avenue Paul Doumer, Paris 16e
39 avenue de l'Opéra, Paris 2e
publicisdrugstore, 133 avenue des Champs-Elysées, Paris 8e
Galeries Lafayette, 40 Boulevard Haussmann, Paris 9e
Galeries Lafayette, 34 rue du 22 Novembre, 67002 Strasbourg
Printemps Parly II, Avenue Charles de Gaulle, 78150 Le Chesnay

Les Boutiques Pierre Hermé Paris à l'International

Tokyo (7 boutiques)
Londres Selfridges
Londres Lowndes Street

Mogador: chocolat au lait, fruit de la passion

Chocolat au lait & cassis

Dépaysé: thé vert matcha, haricot rouge azuki, citron vert & gingembre


Arabella: chocolat au lait, banane, fruit de la passion, & gingembre confit

Métissé (left): carotte, orange & cannelle;

Pierre Hermé Patisserie at 72 rue Bonaparte, Paris 6e

There were so many desserts I wanted to try, but at 6.90€ a pop (which is $9.90 with the Euro at $1.45, it was too much and I wanted to try as many macaron flavors as possible.

I love this presentation of our PH desserts. It's like unwrapping a present and see below for what we got!

Isaphan, enjoyed at Saint Sulpice and the fountain in front of it

Other Food Photos
What's a Kouign-amann?

Boulangerie right near our hotel where I bought a croissaint au beurre at 11:30am. Next time I have to get a croissant fresh out of the oven, at 6am..maybe 7am.

Eggs emptied and then filled with pure dark chocolate. I think this is a specialty (this year, maybe) for Pâques, or Easter. I didn't try one this time, but on our next visit to Lyon, I will eat one for pure "research."

Crêpe lady at le jardin de Luxembourg; we had a complete, with ham, cheese, and a egg cracked on top. With pepper and pickled red peppers. This is totally the way I like my savory crêpes from now on. With the exception of one I made with speculoospasta.